Guest post written by Stephanie Badaru
As much as I would’ve wanted to experience doing the Inca trail or the jungle trek or some sort of trek to Machu Picchu, that idea was quickly dashed out the window due to the fact that I was on a tight budget. The prices for these treks were just too much for my liking and I didn’t actually come prepared for a trek (or have the energy) so I researched the cheapest and easiest way to do Machu Picchu.
No tour or hostel will tell you about the cheap way to do Machu Picchu simply because they have their own tours to sell. You can’t really blame them but such ways do exist!
I met a girl in Bolivia who to wanted to do Machu Picchu on the cheap so we decided to travel to Peruand do it together. The before we decided to set off for Machu Picchu we went to the smaller bus terminal in Cusco called El Terminal Santiago and bought our bus tickets to Quillabamba for 15 soles each.
The Day of our Journey to Machu Picchu:
We had booked the bus for 7:30am, so we left our hostel at 10 to 7 and walked 10 – 15 minutes to El Terminal Santiago (Santiago bus terminal)
Our actual destination wasn’t Quillabamba it was Santa Teresa, but you will have to purchase a ticket to Quillabamba and the bus will make a stop in Santa Teresa, don’t worry the bus driver should make an announcement when you arrive so you don’t miss your stop. It is roughly a 5 hour journey to get from Cusco to Santa Teresa.
Once you get to Santa Teresa there are guys waiting in cars/mini vans (collectivos) to take people from Santa Maria to a place called the Hydroelectrico, we paid 15 soles for the trip. We waited for our guy to get more people into his car (it is guaranteed that you will have to wait at least 30 minutes in Santa Teresa, so embrace it) and after skipping breakfast and arriving in Santa Teresa at around 2pm (yes our bus didn’t leave Cusco until quarter to 9, they too wanted to fill up the seats) it was lunchtime.
Now I don’t remember the name of this restaurant we ate at but Santa Teresa is pretty small and it was located near the bus stop (on the right and the furthest to the left). In the end, we both had a bowl of soup and a main dish for 5 soles each and it the food was great.
Our driver was ready to make a move and after letting our food digest and grabbing an ice cream we got into the car and we were on our way.
The journey to the Hydroelectrico should take between 2 to 3 hours altogether and it is certainly not for the faint of heart. It is a pretty bumpy ride and you know you are inSouth Americawhen your driver ignores the fact that the bus is on a cliff and drives like a lunatic. But don’t fret as you know they don’t want to die either and they’ve done this voyage numerous of times. It’s a narrow road but the views and scenery are amazing even though it’s pretty hard to try and take a picture whilst the car is on the move.
The Hydroelectrico is where the train tracks start and from here you will need to walk down the train tracks to the Machu Picchu town of Aguas Calientes. Overall the walk is around 2 hours and is not strenuous at all as it’s a straight path.
Walking along the train tracks
Note: We didn’t, but it would be a good idea to have a torch as when it gets dark it would be nice to see.
Scenery walking to Aguas Calientes
We arrived in Aguas Calientes a little after 8pm and we hadn’t booked a place to stay but as we were walking we went past a guy who was trying to get people to stay in his hotel, he threw the price of 50 soles each for a private room and I thought I would try my luck and threw the number 25 back at him while walking away, which to my surprise he agreed!
Note: BARGAIN!
We managed to bag a private room with a double bed and a single bed with a hot shower for 25 soles each. You could probably find a hostel for maybe 15 soles.
After dumping our things, we went to buy our entrance and bus tickets, the entrance ticket to Machu Picchu was 128 soles for Adults 64 soles for students with an ISIC card (try and get one before, you save a lot of money while abroad)
Now you have some choices here: the cheapest option is to walk to the entrance instead of getting the bus, this option is freeee but it won’t be an easy hike and should take roughly 2 hours. The second option is to buy a one way bus ticket for 25 soles and then walk back down once you’ve finished or lastly you can buy a return ticket for 50 soles.
Note: There is a lot of walking up and around in Machu Picchu that tires you out so keep that in mind when making a decision.
We decided to buy a return bus ticket and paid 50 soles each.
After we had purchased everything we went in search for some food. Aguas Calientes is no doubt a tourist town and is surrounded with pricey restaurants, but right in town is a huge Mercado and the moment we saw that we knew we would find some good cheap food. And we were right! Again we had a bowl of soup and a main, but this time for 7 soles each.
The gates to Machu Picchu don’t open until 6am, so if you’re walking, I’d say leaving at 4 am would be ideal to be able to enjoy Machu Picchu without a ridiculous amount of tourists. If not the first bus leaves at 5.30am.
Me at Machu Picchu YES IT IS AMAZING
Coming back you just do the same, this time there will be guys waiting at the Hydroelectrico to take you to Santa Teresa and some will even go all the way to Cusco (just depends on how long you want to wait)
We just went to Santa Teresa for 15 soles again. When we got to Santa Teresa we had missed the early buses it would be a 4 hour wait for another bus. Tip: if you want to get the bus try and aim to get to Santa Teresa before 12pm. As we didn’t want to wait we got into another collectivo that would take us all the way to Cusco, we bargained the price to 25 Soles each.
The Cost of the Trip
Bus to Quillabamba: 15 soles = $5
Ride from Santa Teresa to Hydroelectricos: 15 soles = $5
2 nights stay at Aguas calientes: 50 soles = $18
Entrance ticket to Machu Picchu: 128 soles = $46
Return Bus ticket to Machu Picchu: 50 soles = $18
Ride from Hydroelectrico to Santa Teresa: 15 soles = $5
Ride from Santa Teresa toCusco: 25 soles = $9
Food/snacks: approx 20 soles = $7
Total Cost: approx $115
Note: Could’ve been done much cheaper!!
Angela
January 27, 2014Hi Yvonne, couple of questions for you. My 19 y.o. son in in Santiago Chile and wanting me to research going to Macchu for him. He’d be traveling alone. Is this a safe idea or should I be looking at a tour? What about foot wear? Does he need hiking boots? Sleeping bag? FYI, fellow Canadian from Calgary!
Thanks for any help
Yvonne
January 31, 2014Hi there Angela. Thank you for your comment. I can’t really answer these questions as I do not know what type of traveler you son is. The trip up to Macchu Picu is not unsafe but there are numerous ways of doing it from trekking it or taking a train etc. etc.
He doesn’t need hiking boots, comfortable walking shoes will be fine. He needs to bring layers as most individuals leave to go to Machu Picchu extremely early in the morning which means that’s really cold. Then once the sun comes, the weather becomes much hotter.
If you have any more questions, please let me know or email me at yvesundertheyewtree@gmail.com. I can help you plan out an itinerary and provide more feedback / answer your questions.
Ariel Baena
April 3, 2016You and your friend are BAD ASSES. I loved reading your adventure, Heading ti MP on Tuesday gonna wing it and figure out best(most affordable way to get to MP once Im there. Just printed out ths option.. Thank you
Tina
March 16, 2014First of all, a general statement, understand that things are a little rocky in Peru right now. http://travel.gc.ca/destinations/peru <-Canada has issued a travel advisory. While I often disregard these, there is a lot of credibility to what they are saying. The Shining Path is around. As the advisory states, Machu Picchu and Cusco are not affected. However, many bus routes move through areas that /are/ affected.
You don’t need to be looking at a tour. However, as someone who lived in the Andean region for 11 months very recently, I am not 100% on board with the route taken in this article. I saw a lot change while I was there with regards to safety. As in, things getting worse. This article has some AWESOME tips for saving money, but the buses are not safe on this road. Yes, the train ticket is A LOT more expensive. Regardless, I, as well as all of my Peruvian friends that I spoke to before doing this trip, advise strongly against this bus route. Additionally, I've met several people returning from their journey who said they wished that they had just forked out the cash for the train ticket.
I've been three times and never had any issues, but I’ve met a lot of people who have. If staying in Cusco, get a hostel near the center, both for convenience and safety. Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu are very safe. If you do decide to go with an agency, you need to be sure that your guide is certified and be 100% clear on what EXACTLY is included.
Happy and safe travels for your son!
Yvonne
March 16, 2014Hello Tina. Thank you for that information!
Andrew
April 16, 2014Hi, I live on this route, in Quellomayo, in-between santa maria and santa teresa. There is absolutely no issue with terrorism on any part of this route. We have lone travellers, couples, families with small children staying at our homestay and nobody has ever had an issue. We have lived here for years, there is absolutely no danger from terrorism. The rainy season (december to april) is the only concern with landslides causing delays. Information on a route like this is always going to be subject to interpretation because some people walk faster or slower, or have a more adventurous side, work on a higher budget etc. I would definitely recommend this route, it offers a unique perspective on rural Peru and avoids the crowds. There is a section of old Inca trail just outside santa rosa (ten minutes outside santa maria) which leads to my town, quellomayo, then on along the beach to cocalmayo’s hot springs. It really is worth looking into this option and perhaps taking your time to get to the ruins.
Carol
December 22, 2014Hi,
I’m travelling from the UK in 2015 and we are on a budget……I am a complete amateur when it comes to treking. What is the best way to get from airport to where you are?
Max Young
January 28, 2014Good independent traveller – asking his mum to sort everything out for him! Will he be bringing his laundry home too!
Katie Featherstone
February 24, 2014Thanks for this- really interesting read and I hope to use it soon!
Yvonne
February 24, 2014I am glad you liked it. Hopefully I will be able to write more about Machu Picchu soon!
GERRY
March 13, 2014when you guys made the return trip back to Cuzco, did you do it immediately after your trek around Machu Picchu or waited a day?
Yvonne
March 16, 2014As mentioned in the article Gerry, I did not write this article. It was provided by a friend who wrote is a guest post. However, I am pretty sure that they waited until the next day to make the trek back as it is unsafe to travel in the night time, especially if you are going to take local buses.
How to Get to Machu Picchu: The Long Way Around
May 8, 2014[…] a number of options depending on your baggage, fitness levels and sense of adventure. Many take a taxi straight to Santa Teresa or hidroelectrica to begin their walk to Aguas Calientes along the railway lines, […]
Lea
June 13, 2014Hi Yvonne,
Thank you for this great post! I have a question, I hope you can help: My bf and me will be travelling around South America for three months in September/October/November. Do you really need to buy your tickets for Machu Picchu a few weeks ahead or can you just go there and hope to get in like the next day? Thanks for advice!!
Yvonne
June 13, 2014Hi Lea. You have three options
1) Buy the tickets online at http://www.machupicchu.gob.pe. This would be the ideal choice if you don’t want to take any chances. If you intend to go to Wayna Picchu (or Huayna Picchu) it might be smarter to book ahead as only 400 people per day are allowed to go up there.
2) Buy the tickets in Cusco at the Instituto Nacional de Cultura (INC). Close to the Plaza de Armas
3) In Aguas Calientes at the Machu Picchu Cultural Centre. Make sure you have Peruvian soles as they do not take credit cards.
Lea
June 13, 2014Thank you so much! I was wondering coz, as you know, when you go backpacking it’s so difficult to plan things ahead. I guess I’ll just wait until we’re in, let’s say Ecuador, and see. (:
a
June 21, 2014I always spent my half an hour to read this web site’s content everyday along with a cup of coffee.
Yvonne
June 21, 2014Thank you 🙂
Help Me! 3 Weeks in Peru and Bolivia Itinerary | Teaching Wanderlust
September 1, 2014[…] saw mentioned over at Matador? If I had a group of people (or even one other person) I would try to do what this guy did and book everything himself and save half the […]
Lidia
September 28, 2014My partner and I made this exact trip in July (one-way only; return by train & collectivo) to visit Machu Picchu and I would have to agree with Andrew and say that it is well worth it! The bus trips are a slight nail-biting experience, but unique and a bit of an ‘adventure’. I have a couple of general things to add, though:
* On the Cusco > Santa Teresa bus trip you might be able to pick up a cheap lunch or snack on the bus. We passed through Urubamba close to lunch time and during the stop to pick-up/drop-off passengers a number of locals boarded selling all sorts of freshly-made lunch packs, snacks and drinks.
* I would allow 2.5 – 3 hours to walk from the Hidroelectrico to Aguas Calientes. This is more realistic and allows you to walk a little slower and enjoy the peace and surroundings.
* Definitely bring a torch (or phone torch) and try to leave Cusco as early as you can because walking in the pitch black darkness can be a little tricky! Although, the fireflies are something else.
* If taking the bus to the entry to Macchu Picchu, I would definitely purchase the ticket the day before, because the queue in the morning is sizeable. Also, the queue for the buses in the morning start VERY early and get very long, so be prepared for some waiting.
We decided to (and were lucky to be able to) catch the train back to Ollantaytambo and take a collectivo from there to Cusco (approx $60 train & s./15 collectivo from memory), because we were exhausted and really didn’t have the energy for the return walk + buses. It also gave us a chance to visit another part of the Sacred Valley during our limited available time.
Rey
October 17, 2014First off, thank you Yvonne for sharing the info on your trip. I am planning a solo trip to MP in mid-late November. I am not on a budget, however I usually travel as if I were because I’ve always found that you get a better feel for the culture by traveling this way. After reading the article and the comments here, I would love to get a more detailed description of this route. I’ve never been to South America and any little details would be greatly appreciated.
Lidia, I really enjoyed your added tips and especially how you took the train back so that you got to see another part of the trek via train. Would you also please give me some details of your trip?
Again, thank you for all your input and I am even more excited to go now after reading all of this!!
Cheers!!
Rey
Peter
February 18, 2015Hey
I planning to go to macchu picchu in mid June, do you think it is possible to do the same way as you without speaking Spanish?
Maddie
June 21, 2015Thanks for all the info. I’ve been trying to find out a way to do it on the cheap and you just provided all the info I needed. Cheers!
Maddie
Cassie
August 20, 2015Hi,
Me and my boyfriend would love to do Machu Picchu but we’re on a budget so finding it hard to find the cheapest way to get there! The information you have provided is really helpful! So thank you for that, is there anything you could tell me to make our trip cheaper? We also have ISIC cards
Thanks,
Cassie
Yvonne
August 20, 2015Hi Cassie. Unfortunately this was a guest blog so I can not provide you with any more information other than what is listed in the article. Sorry about that 🙂
machu picchu
January 3, 2016The best site of the world , machu picchu is beautyful
Theresa
September 13, 2016I just found what I needed. I will keep this as a reference until I am ready to realize my ultimate dream!
Salkantay Trail
December 7, 2016Salkantay trek is the alternative to the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu was recently named among the 25 best Treks in the World, by National Geographic Adventure Travel Magazine.